This red wine is from the AOC (Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée ) of Haut-Médoc on the left bank of the Gironde estuary. I partook in an interesting bottle of the 2004 Chateau Cantemerle. Although most vintages of Cantemerle are in the range of this blend, 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot, I could not confirm the 2004 blend. The Chateau produces around 25,000 cases of this cuvee each vintage. This property has a long history of being used for winemaking, some believe it dates back to the 1100’s. It is considered to be classified as one of eighteen Cinquièmes Crus (Fifth Growths) in the Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855.
On the nose: Very subtle burnt toast with a twinge of Vicks cough drops. Intriguing. Bordeaux with some age can go either way, having the dusty tannins that prove to make it enjoyable and hold the fruit together or being a monolithic juggernaut pounding you into submission with back breaking tight tannins that will never give way to the fruit. Fortunately for me, this bottle has the dusty kind. This bottle is not a top tier chateau by the region’s standards, but the quality is on the uptick and I applaud the owners of this Domaine for keeping true to their roots and producing a wine which gives great examples of why Bordeaux blends are loved by so many. Slight pepper notes come with a second twirl in the glass. Some cigar box and potting soil. I would definitely consider this to be a bit austere.
Palate: Tannins are still there, but the life of this wine is turning. Would consume in the next three years. 2004 was not a great year in Bordeaux and was overshadowed by, 2005 which some consider to be the best of the decade (until 2009 – the wine press loves to anoint a vintage “Best Ever”, so be aware). Would pair this with some pan roasted sweetbreads with sweet & sour cipollini onions. (Sidenote: sweetbreads are neither sweet or a form of bread, discuss amongst yourselves?). This wine is as smooth as Paul Newman in the 1967 film classic Cool Hand Luke. Very tart and savory. It holds the tongue’s attention with some weight and length.
Rating Scale (out of 5 +):
+++
Price: $25 in 2004 (probably find it for around $40-$50 now)
"What we've got here is failure to communicate"
On the nose: Very subtle burnt toast with a twinge of Vicks cough drops. Intriguing. Bordeaux with some age can go either way, having the dusty tannins that prove to make it enjoyable and hold the fruit together or being a monolithic juggernaut pounding you into submission with back breaking tight tannins that will never give way to the fruit. Fortunately for me, this bottle has the dusty kind. This bottle is not a top tier chateau by the region’s standards, but the quality is on the uptick and I applaud the owners of this Domaine for keeping true to their roots and producing a wine which gives great examples of why Bordeaux blends are loved by so many. Slight pepper notes come with a second twirl in the glass. Some cigar box and potting soil. I would definitely consider this to be a bit austere.
Palate: Tannins are still there, but the life of this wine is turning. Would consume in the next three years. 2004 was not a great year in Bordeaux and was overshadowed by, 2005 which some consider to be the best of the decade (until 2009 – the wine press loves to anoint a vintage “Best Ever”, so be aware). Would pair this with some pan roasted sweetbreads with sweet & sour cipollini onions. (Sidenote: sweetbreads are neither sweet or a form of bread, discuss amongst yourselves?). This wine is as smooth as Paul Newman in the 1967 film classic Cool Hand Luke. Very tart and savory. It holds the tongue’s attention with some weight and length.
Rating Scale (out of 5 +):
+++
Price: $25 in 2004 (probably find it for around $40-$50 now)
"What we've got here is failure to communicate"
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