Sunday, April 13, 2014

2004 Chateau Cantemerle

This red wine is from the AOC (Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée ) of Haut-Médoc on the left bank of the Gironde estuary. I partook in an interesting bottle of the 2004 Chateau Cantemerle. Although most vintages of Cantemerle are in the range of this blend, 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot, I could not confirm the 2004 blend. The Chateau produces around 25,000 cases of this cuvee each vintage. This property has a long history of being used for winemaking, some believe it dates back to the 1100’s. It is considered to be classified as one of eighteen Cinquièmes Crus (Fifth Growths) in the Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855.

On the nose: Very subtle burnt toast with a twinge of Vicks cough drops. Intriguing. Bordeaux with some age can go either way, having the dusty tannins that prove to make it enjoyable and hold the fruit together or being a monolithic juggernaut pounding you into submission with back breaking tight tannins that will never give way to the fruit. Fortunately for me, this bottle has the dusty kind. This bottle is not a top tier chateau by the region’s standards, but the quality is on the uptick and I applaud the owners of this Domaine for keeping true to their roots and producing a wine which gives great examples of why Bordeaux blends are loved by so many. Slight pepper notes come with a second twirl in the glass. Some cigar box and potting soil. I would definitely consider this to be a bit austere.

Palate: Tannins are still there, but the life of this wine is turning. Would consume in the next three years. 2004 was not a great year in Bordeaux and was overshadowed by, 2005 which some consider to be the best of the decade (until 2009 – the wine press loves to anoint a vintage “Best Ever”, so be aware). Would pair this with some pan roasted sweetbreads with sweet & sour cipollini onions. (Sidenote: sweetbreads are neither sweet or a form of bread, discuss amongst yourselves?). This wine is as smooth as Paul Newman in the 1967 film classic Cool Hand Luke. Very tart and savory. It holds the tongue’s attention with some weight and length.

Rating Scale (out of 5 +):

+++

Price: $25 in 2004 (probably find it for around $40-$50 now)

"What we've got here is failure to communicate"

 

2004 Antonio Vallana e Figlio Gattinara

This red wine is from Northern Piedmont, Alto Piemonte. I had a delightful bottle of the 2004 Antonio Vallana e Figlio Gattinara. It is 100% Nebbiolo. The long and short of it is the family that produces this wine has a long and storied history in the wine business which dates back to the 18th century, but they did not start producing wine until 1937. The wines from this particular estate were such a precious commodity in the States during the middle of the 20th century. People in the know knew this was a tried and true red wine that could be trusted to give copious amounts of pleasure. The family had some hard times and unfortunately a death in the family, Antonio Vallana. He passed away very young and was originally slated to take the lead at the winery. This impacted the wines in a bad way and for a couple decades the quality could not be relied upon. Now 2 young family members (Marina and Francis Fogarty-Vallana) have taken the reigns and are trying to recreate their yesteryear magic.

On the nose: Is this a Barolo? Taste it blind and I dare you to not think it’s a Barolo or Barbaresco. Dries the mouth a lot on approach, but you kind of get used to it so the rest isn’t as abrasive as the first sip. Needs some protein to go along with this, maybe a nice veal spiedini. This attacks the taste buds like Zinedine Zidane’s forehead to the chest of Marco Materazzi ala 2006 World Cup Final. Ouch! Lesson to be learned, don’t talk smack about a French guy’s sister.

Palate: Sunday gravy would be nice with this. Not much on the nose initially, sense of tightly wound tannins. Decanted and revisited 2 hours later. Now we are talking. Dried rose pedal, button mushroom and some fresh coco. I would take this over half the Nebbiolo based Italian wines out there that I have tasted in the last 2 years and it is probably half the price. Great value. All the stuffing here to last over a decade.

Rating Scale (out of 5 +):

+++½

Price: $22

"No Goal"